Winter fruit trees are prone to frost damage?
Recently, most northern cities in China began snowfall. At this time, if the fruit growers do not freeze fruit trees, it will easily lead to freezing damage. Why are fruit trees prone to frost damage? The reporter interviewed Han Mingyu, a professor at the College of Horticulture, Northwest Agriculture and Forestry University, on this issue.
Han Mingyu said that after falling fruit trees in the fall, some of the nutrients returned to the tree body as a stock of nutrients for the tree to bloom in the coming year. If the nutrient reserves of the tree are insufficient, it will result in weak tree vigor and reduced cold resistance. If severe cold weather is encountered, the cells lose their turgor, the tissue is soft, the surface appears water-stained, the bark formation layer becomes brown or the entire cortex becomes brown and dry, resulting in the death of the main shoots of young trees and big trees. After this happens, the trees are easily infected by the bacteria. When the temperature is appropriate in the spring of next year, the bacteria will multiply in large areas and cause different degrees of diseases, such as apple rot. In addition, fruit trees with severe saplings, diseases and insect pests are weak, cold resistance is poor, and they are prone to frost damage. In the later stage of growth, a large amount of nitrogen fertilizer is applied, the number of times of watering is excessive, the tree growth is excessively prosperous, and the fruit trees that are stopped for a long period of late autumn are prone to freeze damage. .
Which parts of the fruit tree are susceptible to freezing damage?
Recently, the reporter interviewed Han Mingyu, a professor at the College of Horticulture, Northwest Agriculture and Forestry University, about which parts of the fruit trees were susceptible to freezing damage.
Twig freezing injury due to the late stop of growth of fruit trees, immature twigs due to its unreliable organization, underdeveloped protective tissues, and susceptible to frost damage and dry death.
Branches that freeze and damage normally developed shoots can also be frozen when the temperature is too low. The appearance of some shoots did not change significantly, but the color of the xylem was dissected and then the black heart was formed. The frozen shoots were late and the leaves were thin or deformed and grew abnormally.
Branch frost damage was caused by the subsidence or cracking of the dry cortex of the frozen branches, and the inside was dark browned and the tissues died. In severe cases, large branches also died one after another.
Roots and necks freeze the roots of the fingernails. The roots and necks of the fruit trees are relatively poor in cold resistance, and the roots and cortices become dark and dead after freezing, and lightly occur in the local areas, while the heavy ones form a black ring and surround the dry period, and the whole plant dies.
Roots freeze damage to the underground growth of the roots, freezing damage is not easy to find, but seriously affect the growth of the aboveground. The outer cortex of the frozen root system turned brown, and the cortex separated from the xylem and even fell off.
Fruit freeze damage prevention?
Recently, the reporter interviewed Xu Ying, a researcher at the Shandong Institute of Pomology, on how to strengthen anti-freezing in orchards.
After picking the white fruit from the tree trunk, the trunk and the main branch of the fruit tree are uniformly coated with whitening agent in time to prevent freezing and to kill pathogens, eggs and adults hidden in the trunk. The preparation method of whitening agent is quicklime, sulfur powder, salt, vegetable oil, and clear water according to the ratio of 10:1:1:0.1:20.
Before wrapping the tree with large freeze, use a straw or straw rope wrapped around the trunk or the main branch to prevent the cold wind from invading and reduce the loss of water from the trunk. Before winding, it is best to soak the wounds in lime water for two days to disinfect and sterilize, to prevent pests from taking the opportunity to invade the fruit trees. In the coming spring, when the grass is dissolved, the cover will be burnt to destroy the overwintering pests.
Antifreeze for winter irrigation Because orchards are mostly built on hillsides, hills, and rivers, shallow soil layers and poor water retention, it is most likely to cause fruit trees to suffer drought damage. Therefore, before winter, fruit trees should be watered twice and after irrigation. When it is slightly dry, the soil surface should be lightly cut to cut off the capillary tube and reduce the loss of water and the accumulation of salt and alkali.
The root neck of the fruit tree is the most difficult to resist the cold invasion, especially the young trees, which are more vulnerable to frost damage. Therefore, soil must be soiled at the junction of the ground part of the tree body and the underground part before freezing, with a thickness of about 30 cm, and it will be removed when it is defrosted in the following year.
Covered with rice straw, wheat straw, dry grass, corn stalks, etc., the ground cover can prevent cold winds from invading rhizomes, reduce frost damage, reduce soil moisture evaporation, and protect the temperature and increase the temperature. When covering, the straw and other coverings should be cut into small pieces of about 20 cm in length, and evenly covered and then covered with a layer of soil to prevent the wind from being blown away. After the mulch is rotted, it can also become an organic fertilizer for the growth of fruit trees. For saplings born within three years, a one-meter square mulch can also be covered in the tree tray before frost, which can increase soil temperature and maintain soil moisture.
The increase in smoke and fume smoke should be performed at the coldest night in winter. The fuel is burned with chopped firewood, chopped weeds, sawdust, and oyster shells. It ignites around midnight. It is advisable to control the fire and use dark smoke and thick smoke. The burning point should be set on the uptake, usually no less than 4 per mu.
Sapling antifreeze four methods?
Newly planted saplings have not yet resumed growth, have poor cold resistance, and are prone to frost damage in winter. To this end, here are some simple ways to prevent drought and frost:
The burial method slams the saplings to the north and then buries them in the soil. The buried soil has a thickness of 30-40 cm. After the burial is completed, the soil is tamped. When the saplings are sprouted in the following year, the soil is opened and the trees are straightened.
The method of coating is to use a plastic film with a thickness of 0.03 mm and cut it into strips 3 to 5 cm wide and 1 to 2 meters long. The young branches are tamped and released in time before sprouting in the spring.
For the young saplings that are slightly larger and not easy to bend, the Tsukuba method can build a half-moon-shaped earthworm that is 1 to 2 meters long and 60 centimeters high at 40 to 50 centimeters to the north to prevent wind and frost.
In the winter season, the wheat, corn, millet and other crop stalks are tied to the tree and then released before the spring sprout.
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